![]() ![]() If you plan on keeping the truck for the next 3 years or more, then go with the Bulletproof style parts. If you are going to repair the truck and get rid of it within 12 to 24 months, then go factory style parts. Another factor is how long do you plan on keeping the truck. If you use the truck as a truck, then you should go for the Bulletproofing versus just using the factory design replacement parts. The decision to “Bulletproof” your truck or not all centers around whether you use the truck as it was intended towing travel trailers, equipment trailers, livestock trailers, larger boats, etc. The ONLY solution is to replace the factory style cooler ever time it’s performance degrades, OR to replace it once and for all with a Bulletproof cooler kit. ![]() ELC coolant of a different brand like Caterpillar may slow it, but is will NOT prevent it. It is NOT trash that forms elsewhere in the cooling system. The above two pictures and video is the result of the chemical reaction that occurs WITHIN the oil cooler. Coolant filtration kits do NOT help….the crud that restricts this cooler is NOT coming from elsewhere in the cooling system, IT FORMS right here WITHIN the cooler itself. ![]() You can replace this engine oil cooler and screen….but in three to four years or fifty thousand to sixty thousand miles, you WILL be right back here AGAIN. Which resides in this High Pressure Oil Pump reservoir in the center of the block….Notice the torn elements on the HPOP oil inlet filter….all that screen and the trash in the screen HAS gone through your HPOP and IPR. This back-flushing procedure is our low-cost solution to what could be an expensive fix.Here is the factory Ford Engine Oil Cooler still mounted in the Oil Cooler housing. Sometimes this leftover sediment can break-away from where it was hiding and clog a newly installed oil cooler. Even as thorough as our procedure is some left over sediment might remain trapped in the original radiator, heater system, etc. That’s why we have a very tedious procedure we use to clean out the cooling system when we replace an oil cooler. Once you get clumping in a cooling system it is VERY HARD TO REMOVE ALL TRACES. This clogging reduces the flow through the cooler and heat can no longer be wicked away efficiently. When engine coolant fails the additive package actually falls out of suspension forming hard particles that become trapped in the tiny fins of the oil cooler. IT IS ALSO A GREAT PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE TO ENSURE THE LONGEVITY OF YOUR CURRENT OIL COOLER!Įngine coolant is typically made up of Ethel-glycol with a specialized additive package in the mix. This procedure is a good way to save a known good cooler from replacement. In this video we show you the method we use to back-flush the 6.0L oil cooler to correct an engine oil overheat condition. (This is a nice way of saying poor maintenance!) The typical reason oil coolers clog is from the breakdown of the engine coolant over time. Clogged oil coolers are notorious weak spots on the 6.0L Powerstroke. ![]()
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